As I mentioned above vulcanite is brittle, it will break when you will try to cut. ![]() Next step will be to cut vulcanite to the size of templatre. ![]() If you have one that fits transfer it on the vulcanit piece which I will send you. Then prepare paper template, paper, because you might possibly have to do more than one. Hallo Gast!ĭu willst die Bilder sehen? Einfach registrieren oder anmelden! Please register or sign in to view the hidden content. Generally vulcanit is very britle in room temperature, you need to warm it up to cut and bend.įirstly I would warm up around missing place (using hair dryer) and cut existing vulcanite to have roughly stright lines, it makes easier cutting replacement, something like this The following is excellent too according to reference, but when I approached them, they could not ship to US.Įbay also has some other vendors, but the ones I found did not have high quality genuine leather, only imitated leather. But you have to check who has the skin for your camera. The top two of my list: Both are good in communication, quality, and after sale service. Many nice, genuine, high quality leather skin vendor (I have used) would ask only $20~30, but they are not on ebay. However, pay attention to the vendor, there are other vendors asking crazy high price, (a couple of hundred $$$). I hadn’t really considered my rather generic eBay purchase as a particularly fine specimen, hence not worthy of such an investment just yet but my feelings may change - thanks for the link, shall be a useful reference.Ī $30 genuine new leather skin is a tiny investment on a working M3., or any working Leica. All clean up can be done with water while it is still pliable. If you are going up to an edge, like the baseplate, don't let it dry while attached to the baseplate, run a wet knife along the join. Then after another couple of hours it will have gone rock hard and look just like the original vulcanite. Then when it is smooth and level using the wet end of a toothpick (or similar) to press into the surface the texture that matches the surrounding vulcanite. It is a two part putty that you mix together in equal parts, so mix a small quantity and spread it into the surface you want to repair using a toothpick or similar to press it in and make sure it gets a good hold. This adds significantly to the surface area being anchored by the glue.Buy a pack of Black Milliput resin putty from eBay or a model shop nearby. In addition to pining, if the parts are large enough score both pieces with an Xacto in a cross-hatch pattern. One tip for people using either superglue or epoxy, esp. Before I found this stuff every bottle of Zap I had would dry up in under a few months - air got in the bottle and gradually made it cure until it wouldn't pour any more. I can second that! It's also the only superglue I've ever used that didn't dry out in the bottle! The metal pin in the cap keeps the hole from drying shut and the threaded cap fits tightly, sealing it from getting excess air inside. Great stuff, you can find it in the hardware-glue section at Walmart. It has bonded everything I've wanted to put together, wether it's metal or plastic. I use Gorilla Super Glue & for me it's the best superglue I've found. I haven't tried the Magic Smooth stuff yet, so not much advice on it, Hope the JB info is helpful though. Pinning is a pain for sure but makes the mini stronger. ![]() but maybe worth investigating, I haven't tried it myself. whilst super glue has to set in a position and has a tendancy to break easily. I did a little more research on metal to metal adhesives and found this on GameSpot Forums: "Super glue for metal minis does not work as well as poly cement as the poly actually melts and bonds the two surfaces together. For smaller figures I'm using pinning with Gale Force Nine Hobby Glue for plastic and metal as the bonder. With my experiments on smaller figures, I've found that you really have to make sure the surfaces of the areas you are joining are clean for the bond to be super strong. ![]() I'm using it more for larger monsters and figures, since it is a bit messy and also pinning as well. I've been experimenting with using JB-Weld on a few figures, and it seems to be pretty good.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |